How to Get Rid of Dark Under-Eye Circles for Good

Posted by Aldo Pusey on Tuesday, July 9, 2024

Even though we firmly believe dark under-eye circles are not the devil, they are a nuisance (read: a top five skin care concern — beating out cellulite, fine lines, and wrinkles). Still, there isn't a one-size-fits-all solution for dark eye circles. In some cases, your genetics will overrule even the best under-eye cream. So, to help you out, we turned to dermatologists Dr. Caren Campbell, Dr. Ranella Hirsch, and Dr. Joshua Zeichner to weigh in on the ins and outs of dark under-eye circles, including what really causes them. (Hint: It's more than just lack of sleep.)

Meet the expert

  • Caren Campbell, M.D., is a board-certified dermatologist based in San Francisco.
  • Ranella Hirsch, M.D., is a Boston-based dermatologist.
  • Joshua Zeichner, M.D., is the director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.

Keep reading for our expert-approved guide to getting rid of dark circles under eyes.

Causes of Dark Circles

Aging

"Dark circles around the eyes are a part of the normal aging process of the face," Dr. Campbell said. According to Dr. Campbell, we naturally lose fat under the eye as we age. This contributes to dark circles because the under-eye area becomes sunken in and "can't reflect evenly off the skin, leading to a shadow or darkness."

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation

Another reason you might have dark circles? Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation — aka darkness that is left behind after inflammation. Dr. Campbell noted that patients with these types of dark circles usually suffer from itchy eczema or allergies that cause them to frequently rub their eyes.

Lifestyle Factors

How you live your life plays a part in causing dull, aged skin. 

"This includes sun exposure, which breaks down collagen and elastin and causes increased broken blood vessels in the skin — all of which contribute to dark circles," said Dr. Campbell. "Lack of sleep, stress, alcohol, caffeine, and smoking can also contribute."

If you're not getting enough sleep, exhaustion can affect your skin's appearance. 

"If you are overtired, then it can cause an increase in the venous congestion of your under-eye vessels," Dr. Hirsch said. "This then leads to more blood volume and the appearance of darker circles."

Genetics

Per Dr. Campbell, genetics take the cake when it comes to dark circles, and your genetics can come into play in various ways. For example, genetics play a role in both your likelihood of developing the aforementioned eczema — and in how quickly your skin shows signs of aging. Genetics, of course, also determines skin type and tone, which play a role in how prone you may be to developing dark circles, noted Dr. Campbell.

While anyone can experience dark circles, as InStyle previously reported, dark circles are known to affect people with higher levels of melanin in their skin (anyone olive-toned and darker). On the other hand, people with a naturally fair complexion might also more readily notice dark circles.

"Because the skin in this area is thin, you can easily see blood vessels under the skin," Dr. Zeichner explained, adding that these dark circles typically have a purple-ish hue.

How to Prevent Dark Circles

For starters, stay on top of your sunscreen game and choose a formula of SPF 30 or higher and broad-spectrum, or opt for an SPF-based under-eye concealer (Dr. Campbell likes Colorescience's Total Eye 3-in-1 Renewal Therapy SPF 35). It will not only help cover up eye circles but also prevent future damage. Wearing sunglasses with UV protection can also help prevent the worsening of dark circles caused by post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, suggested Dr. Campbell.

When it comes to your nightly skin care routine, Dr. Cambell recommended incorporating an under-eye cream that can help rebuild collagen and elastin (or keep it from breaking down in the first place). Her favorite is Replenix Retinol Eye Repair Cream, which is made with key ingredients like retinol; green tea polyphenols; vitamins A, C, E, and K; and hyaluronic acid.

How to Get Rid of Dark Circles

If you're deciding how to treat existing under-eye circles, know there are concealers, creams, and in-office procedures that can all help, depending on the type of dark circles you're dealing with. Here, experts break down the best ways to treat dark circles:

Use Makeup

YSL Beauty's National Makeup Artist, J. Brandon Correa, and Tarte's Global Makeup Artist, Alexis Smith, suggest only treating the areas of discoloration rather than the full under-eye area. 

"If you apply too much, you will end up having a circle of just a different color," explained Correa. 

Instead, Correa recommended adding concealer, such as YSL's Touche Éclat, which has an illuminating effect, to the upper and inner corner of the eye and the upper sides of the nose, then gently tapping the product into the skin with either your clean fingertips or a small makeup brush.

Another alternative is using what Smith calls the "check mark technique," which involves dabbing concealer into the inner and outer eye corners, always blending upwards into the temple to create a more lifted effect. When choosing a concealer, opt for a shade with a peach undertone as it will "correct any grayness under the eye," said Correa. 

Smith advised selecting a concealer that's one shade lighter than your foundation. However, if you want a more highlighted look, opt for a shade two shades lighter than your go-to complexion product. He suggested Tarte's best-selling Shape Tape Concealer or Shape Tape Ultra Creamy Concealer, depending on your skin type.

According to Smith, people with normal and oily skin can often use standard formulas, whereas those with dry or mature skin should opt for hydrating ones to prevent irritation and creasing.

Try a Skin Care Solution

Dr. Zeichner noted many reasons you could be experiencing dark under-eye circles and stressed the importance of identifying the causes in order to treat them.

For dark circles caused by loose or crepey skin, Dr. Zeichner suggested a topical cream with retinol, as it stimulates collagen and strengthens the skin's foundation, with Dr. Hirsch agreeing and adding that creams, lotions, and gel products derived from vitamin A "work to increase cell turnover," and therefore diminish the appearance of dark circles. 

"Pond's Rejuveness Brightening Eye Cream contains a stabilized form of retinol in a non-irritating formula that can be used daily," Dr. Zeichner said. "The product also contains niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3 that soothes and brightens the skin."

To reduce the look of pigmentation, Dr. Zeichner leaned on under-eye creams that boast vitamin C, a potent antioxidant that interferes with abnormal pigment production. 

"This a potent antioxidant that blocks production of abnormal pigmentation to brighten the under-eye area," explained Dr. Zeichner. (We recommend BeautyStat's Universal C Eye Perfector.)

Some people have hollowness under the eye that creates a shadow, giving a dark appearance. 

"Here, the issue is a lack of volume, so look for a hydrating product that contains an ingredient like hyaluronic acid," suggested Dr. Zeichner. "Hyaluronic acid can also help plump the skin to hide any blood vessels that may be giving a bluish appearance to the under-eye area." 

Dr. Zeichner recommended the RoC Multi-Correxion Hydrate and Plump Eye Cream because it contains hyaluronic acid to plump, hydrate and smooth under the eyes.

Consider an In-Office Treatment

For dark circles caused by aging or from hollow eyes that cast shadows, Dr. Campbell said her go-to in-office procedure for these types of dark circles is a filler — such as Restylane or Juvéderm. 

"Despite the videos you may see on social media, the best way to treat this area is to improve the under-eye and cheek junction rather than just filling the under-eye, so make sure you see a board-certified dermatologist with experience in treating this area," said Dr. Zeichner, adding that the downside to only treating under the eyes can lead to an unnatural and puffy appearance.

Both dermatologists agree that the best in-office treatment for dark circles caused by hyperpigmentation likely involves a chemical peel or lasers. Dr. Zeichner emphasized the importance of speaking to a board-certified dermatologist to discuss which treatment is best for you, as different peels and lasers tackle different concerns and provide different results.

"Resurfacing lasers can strengthen the skin, while other lasers can help eliminate pigmentation or extra blood vessels that may give a bluish appearance," explained Dr. Zeichner.

Frequently Asked Questions

  • Can vitamin deficiency cause dark under-eye circles?

    Vitamins E, D, K, A, and B12 deficiencies, as well as a lack of iron, may contribute to dark circles.

  • Do dark under-eye circles ever go away?

    How and when your dark circles go away will depend on their cause and severity. Treatments range from topical skin care products to in-office procedures.

  • Can stress cause dark under-eye circles?

    Poor sleep or lack of sleep resulting from stress can contribute to dark under-eye circles. Reducing stress and getting sufficient quality sleep may help to improve the appearance of dark circles.

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